Wednesday, April 23: Scenic Sailing: Wachau Valley; Krems, Austria

The Official Itinerary

Included Excursion: Göttweig Abbey

Extra Excursion: Mozart & Strauss Concert.

This concert venue canceled. Here are details about the replacement.

Alma Deutscher Plays Mozart & Strauss.

Delight in an enchanting evening of music with a privileged access performance led by the renowned Alma Deutscher. Alma will act as both conductor and violinist in an enthralling concert of old and new music. Born in 2005, Alma is a musical prodigy who has captivated the classical world, selling out her Carnegie Hall debut at age 14 and being hailed as the ``new Mozart.'' Tonight, revel in a stirring presentation of timeless music as she leads the historic Strauss Capelle, the orchestra with a tradition going back nearly 200 years to the iconic composer himself, through renditions of the music of Mozart and the waltzes of Strauss, as well as her own compositions. After, return to your ship, no doubt humming many of the evening's melodies.

My Perspective

The schedule today was different. The field trip started at 11:45 instead of the usual 9 am (or even 8:15 am). Breakfast was earlier, making room for a brunch instead of a lunch. The extra time in the morning could be spent up on the top deck sightseeing.

After a late breakfast, we did some sightseeing from the upper deck of the boat. We were sailing through the scenic Wachau Valley. The valley is known for its wine growing. There were also castles and a huge monastery (Melk Abbey) up on a distant hill. The scenery was very nice.

Melk castle.

Scenery along the Wachau Valley section of the Danube.

A small vinyard.

One castle was very high up and had a commanding view of the river. Sometime during the Medieval period, the resident Duke turned pirate. His thugs would kidnap the family of any boat captain who was sailing near and dangle the family over the rock near his castle so that the captain would pay all he had as a ransom. The nearby villagers eventually disguised themselves to get into the castle and ended the guy's reign.

The Bloody Duke's Castle.

The main field trip was to Göttweig Abbey. We headed out on a bus from the town of Krem.

Göttweig Abbey.

Here are two photos of the Abbey Chapel.

The Abbey Chapel.

The organ pipes in the Abbey Chapel.

After viewing the Abbey, the bus took us to the town of Tulln, where we reunited with the Atla. It then sailed towards Vienna, arriving during dinner. In Tulln, we encountered an intriguing lifesize sculpture.

Intriguing Sculpture.

There was a plaque nearby with a description of the sculpture. It was, of course, in German. But Google Translate and some photo joining (of the translation) gave me this:

Intriguing Sculpture's Description.

Here is a picture of the Viking Atla in full view on the river (without us onboard at the time). Our cabin was the last double-doors on the bottom right (ignoring the small steerage windows at river level)

The Viking Atla on the Danube.

Before dinner there was a brief waltz demonstration. The two dancers performed the Blue Danube Waltz. Then they told us that the Waltz grew from two sources: the aristocratic Minuet, and a rowdy peasant dance named the Ländler. This occurred in the ship's lounge, which is a lousy venue for viewing a dance demonstration (but the best place available).

The Waltz

The Alma Deutscher Concert

After dinner we bussed to Vienna (Wien in German; pronounced Veen). There we listened to a wonderful concert.

The venue was the historic House of Strauss (where Strauss actually did perform many of his waltzes). The hall seats about 150 people and we were front row center! (It was a seat-yourself event and all the people that went in before us chose to leave the righthand front row empty. We were less than 10 feet from Alma when she conducted and played violin and less than 15 feet from her when she performed on the piano.

Alma Deutscher.

Here is the program. You may want to leave it open in the new tab while reading what follows.

MOZART: OVERTURE “LE NOZZE DI FIGARO”
The concert started with the overture to Mozart's The Marriage of Figaro, with Alma conducting. Although she was facing the orchestra (about 20 absolutely top-notch musicians), she exuded charm. I could see her smiling at the musicians for most of the time. She gave very animated directions---if I were a musician I would know exactly what she expected at any measure of the score.
MOZART: PIANO CONCERTO No. 21, 2nd movement Andante
The next piece was the Andante from Mozart's Piano Concerto No. 21 (AKA "The Theme from Elvira Madigan"). Alma played the piano. I will say this now: there was not a wrong note by anyone in the orchestra or from Alma during the entire concert.
JOHANN STRAUSS II: OVERTURE “THE BAT”
Alma went back to conducting. A very lively performance.
ALMA DEUTSCHER: VIOLIN CONCERTO IN G MAJOR, 3rd movement Allegro vivace e scherzando
Alma is now 20. When she was 9, she was asked to play a concert in Japan. They wanted to play a concerto written by her. She hadn't yet written any concertos, so she decided to do so. This was part of the result. Alma played the violin solo part. Both the playing and the composition were quite good.
GIACHINO ROSSINI: CHI DISPREZZA GL’INFELICI
Rossini was working on a new opera and complained in a letter to a friend that the "number 2" leading lady had a terrible voice. He did say there was one note that she did ok with. So he wrote her an aria where she only sang that one note and the rest of the notes were transferred to the orchestra. The audiences loved it and the singer was quite pleased with all the applause she got. Alma drafted the audience to become that singer. She changed the Italian lyrics to two phrases we were to sing (on a single note) whenever she held up 1 or 2 fingers (respectively). The new lyrics were "This song has just one note." and "Here we go again.". We then all collectively performed the aria. Quite fun.
ALMA DEUTSCHER: SIREN SOUNDS, Concert Waltz
Alma moved to Vienna when she was 12. At some point she noted the police siren sound and decided she could turn it into pleasant music. This piece starts out with dissonance (for traffic) and a pianica playing the police siren, but transitions into a set of 4 waltzes. It was surprisingly good.
JOHANN STRAUSS II: THE BLUE DANUBE Waltz op. 314
The audience consisted of people on 4 different Viking River Cruise ships on the Danube, so of course they played the Blue Danube Waltz, with Alma conducting. Halfway through some young man in a suit tapped her on the shoulder. She wordlessly waved him off with an "I am conducting now, go away" vibe. He tapped again and when she finally looked at him (the orchestra never stopped playing nor missed a note), he signalled that he wanted her to dance. So she joined him and they waltzed throughout the entire venue, ending at the front again just as the waltz finished. So she can compose, conduct, play the piano, play the violin, and dance---all quite well. (Video compliments of Jim Savage, another guest on the cruise.)
JOHANN STRAUSS I: RADETZKY MARSCH
Vienna New Year's concerts always end with the Radetzky March. There is a particular pattern of clapping that the audience always joins in with at the conductor's signal. Alma taught us to clap quietly when she was crouched low, and raise the volume as she stood higher. I think the majority of our group knew how to do this clap, and the rest caught on immediately.

This is my favorite event (at least so far) of this trip.


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